Mar 3, 2007

WEEK 17

February 26 – March 4, 2007

Can you believe we have already had mosquito sightings here in Afghanistan? In the first week of March?! I find that unbelievable. Before I left North America, the deployment folks provided me with a six month’s supply of Doxycycline as an anti-malaria preventative (which I am supposed to take daily). Kris notified me this week that my second six month’s supply arrived at our house. That coupled with the sightings in the same week makes me think I should start taking the Doxycycline daily as prescribed instead of whenever. Hopefully this stuff also prevents Leschmaniasis as I certainly do not want to contract that lovely disease. The hardest part will be to remember to take the stuff every day as I have never had to take a daily pill or supplement. I guess I’ll put the bottle next to my toothbrush.

I made a comment to my wife the other day that I had tremendous difficulty with sewing a button back onto my flannel pajama pants. This was one thing my mother never taught me and I have not acquired the skill in the 22+ years since moving out of my parents’ house. I certainly understand the basic concept of running the thread through the button holes, but the stand-off distance thing from the material is my downfall. I had that button so up close and personal to the fabric that it essentially stopped being a separate item and instead became one with the flannel. I could not slide the button into the button hole that it is supposed to reside in. Eventually, I cut it back off, put it and the pants in a box, and it is now on its way to my wife for repair. Kris thinks my inability to sew on a button is hilarious. I reminded her of my quantum myriad other qualities which include cooking, cleaning, machine sewing, and my amazing ability at buying her clothing, however, none of those measures up to sewing on a button. I now feel like I’ve plummeted to the bottom of the Caste system because of my newly proclaimed inability.

Oh yeah, last week Vice President Cheney stopped by for an overnighter to check out the goings-on here in this lovely neck of the world. Surely he enjoyed the roar of the jets coming and going throughout the night and no doubt gleefully reveled at his dining experiences. However, I’m sure the thing he appreciated most from his visit here was the morning fracas caused by a Taliban exploding himself at the East gate. This was the first attack on Bagram since May 2005. The unfortunate part was killing 17 people which included one U.S. soldier and one KBR employee. Evidently three individual Taliban strapped bombs to themselves and were intent on coming in and meeting our V.P. They parked their car, got out, and walked up to the gate. The first bomber took out the gate while his two accomplices decided they were not ready to meet Allah and our Vice President just yet and began to flee. Fortunately, our soldiers captured them (there are conflicting reports as to whether they were captured or shot) and prevented any other explosions.

Another unfortunate part was the general Red Alert that was sounded all over Bagram and direction from the Giant Voice to occupy our nearest bunker. CD and I were at work when this occurred and when we were told to get into our bunkers, Craig asked me where our bunker was. If we were at our hooch, we certainly know as we nearly run into them every time we walk out of the door; however at the shop I had no idea. We eye-balled our shop and determined that it was made of concrete and earth (and other materials that I will describe later) and must be considered a ‘hard building’ therefore we would reside in it. Five KBR workers were in our compound delivering containers and shared our building with us during the next six hours of Red Alert. During that time, F-15Es, A-6s, A-10s, and AH-64s flew overhead at what seemed like inches above the buildings. All other air and ground traffic in and out was stopped (except for Air Force 2) which meant mail and Frappuccino deliveries were now going to be messed up for a couple of days. Additionally, our beer contact can no longer deliver as the gates are under much tighter scrutiny and security for an indefinite amount of time. I know this is a good thing; conversely it seems like a bad thing.

Our main shop building was originally constructed by the Russians using concrete for the floors, walls, and ceiling. It appears to be reasonably sturdy. At some point, the locals or Taliban added on to the building using the local materials available: mud, straw, and Russian airplanes. The walls are a couple of feet thick and made of mud and straw. The roof is made of Russian airplane wings covered with mud and straw and some type of tar that repels water only in seven inch splotches. How do I know, you ask? Well, in portions of the building, areas of a plane wing are exposed to include some of the missing exterior skin of the wing revealing wiring and hydraulic tubing. A terribly constructed concrete floor was poured sometime after the construction of the walls and roof. Fortunately for us, we work in the better constructed half of the building.

Just as we were completed with the first two-thirds of our vehicle completion allotment here, Dobbie and I received the remaining quantity of vehicles for us to work on. These vehicles are a tremendous improvement from the previous we have received because they are much newer and have extremely few maintenance problems. They are still “Hajji’d up”, but not nearly as bad as our early to mid 90’s predecessors. We are actually excited about these and have two that we take turns driving our whole 1.1 mile round-trip daily.

When I say “Hajji’d up”, I mean screwed over with reckless abandon exclusive of apparent thought made towards practicality, convenience, and or concern. Most and I do mean most of the vehicles we have received were originally right-side drivers. Of those, only four survived Hajji conversion to left side drivers, meaning we had four out of our plethora that you would drive from the right side of the vehicle. Supposedly, left-side drivers are what everyone here wants (not us, the locals) to be more like America and less like Britain. It is evidently worth the cost of changing the dash, wiring, and steering to the left side of the vehicle when local resale is concerned.

The Hajjis do a terrible job of wiring. Imagine changing the driver’s side worth of power windows and locks and mirrors to the other side. The face plates that house the buttons and switches do not match the curves of the opposite side of the vehicle door, so they are simply cut (trimmed) and glued to fit. The stalks on the steering wheel that control windshield wipers, headlights, and turn-signals are not rearranged and are backasswards. The heating / air conditioning and fan controls slide or turn the opposite way. In a couple of instances, the Hajjis have cut the red and blue portion of the temperature plate out and glued it in upside down so the switches would follow the appropriate action, however, the writing is now upside down as well. It is a sight to behold and unimaginable to believe that people would pay more for a vehicle in this condition. At least the clutch, brake, and accelerator are positioned correctly.

Speaking of Britain, all of our pirated TV channels come from the land of the Queen’s English. Take a show that most of you have probably seen like Mythbusters on the Discovery Channel. Here, we have a different host narrating the same show you folks see. This dude is decidedly British and uses words that we do not use in America. The show is otherwise identical to there with this huge exception. At first, I was having a problem keeping up with part of the shows, but now that I can understand English all is well. I’m not sure I will be able to come to terms with TV back there in the states.

Not to be outdone, our internet comes from India. When I Google or surf the web, the default browser returns with Indian information; you know those addresses that have the “.in” at the end of the strings and so forth. Everything runs through India to include my Skype VOIP. I called the Skype (which is a company in Iceland) Help Desk to ask a couple of questions and got Raoul Taj (not really sure how to spell his name) who had an uncanny accent and dialect of someone I associate with living in India. I was really hoping Sven or Inga would be answering my questions, but I suppose the Nordic folks also find comfort in using the technical support people in India. Who woulda known?!

With tremendous Asian and European ethnicities and nationalities represented here, I have had to “get used to” a couple of their idiosyncrancies whether I wanted to or not. One of them that not only annoy me, but Dobbie as well, is the lack of personal space these folks seem to have no regard for. The other day as we were standing in line to enter the DFAC, I had this Russian guy behind me that was not content unless his arm was actually touching me. Every time he bumped me, he announced, “Sorry” (he must have done that seven times in five minutes). Then when I had my tray and was putting food on it, he elbowed me a couple of more times. After the ninth “Sorry”, I finally said, “Why don’t you back off a meter!” in a measured tone. I no doubt startled him. He suddenly stood there with mouth agape and his entire body frozen in place. I was fully prepared to rattle off a few well chosen soliloquies and point to CD’s 9mm, but didn’t need to as he was still frozen, giving me ample space and time to finish acquiring my three food items for lunch. This was by far not the first time I have experienced this lack of personal space. I also know it will not be the last.

Maybe I’m going soft or my taste buds have finally broken down to that of a local Afghani who will eat anything. Our DFAC of choice has BBQ spare ribs on Saturday. I can tell by looking at them that they are not from cows and are certainly not from pigs. That leaves me with only a few options as to what they could possibly come from and camels, goats, mules, sheep, and yaks are the only guesses I can come up with. These things are slathered in a sauce and I take extra delight in applying another 23 layers of BBQ sauce from the Heinz bottle sitting on the table. The texture isn’t all bad and if you can accidentally (deliberately) get BBQ sauce on your nose, the smell isn’t too bad either. I’ll run through a couple to give myself the feeling that I actually am enjoying the food and keep my fingers in shape by gripping the ribs.

My brother-in-law, Joe, sent me a few DVD-Rs of television shows, music, and video of Kris and the kids. What a fabulous surprise. I had asked Joe around the Superbowl to DVR the Superbowl commercials (because we didn’t get them) and if he could DVR ‘24’ (the show with Keifer Sutherland). I had actually forgotten about that request and viola! they showed up. I have torn through the music, watched the video and commercials, and am gearing up for a ‘24’ fest as Joe sent me the first six hours. I plan on hitting this the next day off. I’m just giddy with excitement thinking about it. I’m not really sure why, but I just am.

OK, instead of putting the picture in the body of the letter, I have placed it on the fifth page. It is a picture of me standing next to Russian-made T-55 and T-62 tanks. Yeah, they look a little rough for wear, but that is the way I like seeing them. This picture is fairly significant to me because I spent my career in our (American) Armor (tank) community and had studied and trained to fight these vehicles for years. It is great to see them up close and personal and to really experience what poorly designed pieces of crap they really are. In the background, the sharp-eyed group of you will notice a couple of MiGs.

I’ll see you fine folks next week when I discuss Tea Snobbery, the perks of living the Afghanistan high life, and the surely-not-to-be-missed fine art of Templating 101! Whew, I can’t wait either.

Arrivederci,

Craig


Feb 25, 2007

WEEK 16

February 19 - 25, 2007

I forgot all about President’s Day when it finally arrived on Monday. Dobbie and I didn’t even give the holiday a second thought as we showed up to the shop to work on a car. It didn’t dawn on us until later that morning when the radio station DJ announced something about having a great President’s Day. We were happily working away with no regard about it being a holiday. This is one of those fine opportunities when ignorance is bliss.

Ed purchased a brass hand-carved vase here before he left and went to Iraq. He sent the vase through his wife to his mother and then realized he had a problem. His wife wanted a vase as well and she communicated this to Ed the day before he was to leave. Ed asked me to pick up a vase for him and send it to his wife. Not a problem. When I initially went to get the vase that Ed wanted, the Hajji was out of that particular type of vase. I communicated this to Ed and said I would get one when the supply was back in. As it turned out, Ed’s sister wanted one of the vases as well, so once again Ed asked me to get a vase for a total of two. Now I am in a real bargaining position.

Ed shelled out $40 large for the first brass vase. I was determined to pay less than that amount and needing two would put me in a better position. I sauntered up to the Hajji with Dobbie, picked up the vase I wanted, and inquired the price of a vase. The Hajji told me $40. I set the vase back down and said no. The Hajji then told me he would give me a special deal of two vases for $80. Wow! What a deal! Talk about bargaining! I shook my head no and said $60 for two. The Hajji whipped out a calculator and asked me to punch in the numbers as he did not understand what $60 was. I got the numbers in there and he shook his head. With that, I said to Dobbie, “OK, let’s go”. The next moment the Hajji agreed to sell me the two vases for $60. I felt pretty good about the process when Dobbie leaned over to me and said “I’ll bet I can get two for $55”. The Hajji was having none of CD’s deliberation so I walked off to give him an opportunity to do some arm twisting. Finally Dobbie called me back over and asked he could borrow a dollar. He had told the Hajji all he had was $55 and made a demonstration out of pulling $54 from his wallet. The Hajji did not see the extra $20s Dobbie kept concealed. I walked up, pulled out a dollar and handed it to him. Deal closed for $55. Whoooo, talk about shrewd. I learned a great deal from CD on that transaction.

One of the great things about being a civilian in the land of military folks is not having to keep a watchful eye out for saluting. With all of the U.S. and coalition forces walking around, you are almost obliged to keep your right arm up in a salute the whole time you are walking regardless of what rank you are. It’s just kind of nice to walk around with my hands in my pockets and wear whatever I want in whatever color I want. I think I am finally enjoying being a civilian.

We have been having some wild weather, but last night after a particularly rainy night, I was making my rounds to the shower and noticed the sun trying to burn through the cloud cover. As I’m sure I have told you many times, we are surrounded with mountain ranges that are covered in snow and are close enough that it appears you could just walk over to the base of them in five minutes. The mountains are tall with an average height in the low teens and some peaks that are right at 20,000 feet, they are tree-less, and covered in a dull whiteness that not only enhances the lines and depths with shading, but belies their enormity. It’s surreal and as if Norman Rockwell painted this background for us so that we may gaze upon them daily. I digress and getting on with my point, I was suddenly frozen by what appeared to be a large white animal on the side of one of the mountain ranges. I stood there and stared for what seemed like an eternity trying to gauge things like size, movement, etc. I rubbed my eyes and continually refocused. I thought for a moment that I was witnessing the abominable snow man, the much bally-hooed Yeti there in all his glory on the Hindu Kush. Surely if such an animal existed, it would certainly be in the high mountain ranges of southern Asia where the peaks are world-class and the snow is never ending. I was nearly a believer and moments away from telling someone when Nature changed the sun and cloud conditions to reveal what it really was: a cloud formation. It’s a good thing I didn’t grab someone to confirm my sighting as I probably would have been removed from here faster than Klinger attempting to get a Section 8.

The Hindu Kush is so named because literally translated it means, “the Killer of Hindus or Hindu Killer”. They received this moniker because of the trade route that passed right up and over the mountain range causing thousands upon thousands of Hindus to perish while traveling over this range throughout the years of an established trade. They still travel it today with donkeys and mules the same way they did hundreds of years ago. There is no super highway or tunnel that affords safe passage, so Hindus continue to die every year. You would think they could find a different way to import / export their wares. Certainly we learned a great deal from the Donner Party. In any case, CD has now applied part of the translation into a greeting. His new phrase when meeting a local is: “What up, Kush?”

We saw something at the Bazaar this time that we had not seen before and that was children. Local children. Groups of three to five were being escorted around the Bazaar by U.S. service personnel. They were all pre-teen in age and clearly happy and excited about the hustle and bustle of the activities. We have no idea why and were not provided with an answer as we hastily attempted to ask. We have not seen any local women and have only noticed a child or two at far distances on the tops of their buildings or tending to goats. It was obvious to me that the children were as much in awe with the surrounds of the Bazaar as I was with seeing them. Maybe this will happen again and we will be able to find out the reason for this occurrence.

Dobbie and I are trying to develop a weekly routine where we take Saturdays off. Nearly everyone else takes Sundays off which creates a lot of traffic at the PX and other infrastructure, and incredibly long lines. I did say we attempt this as it has yet to become SOP. We both hate to leave work unfinished in the shop and have frequently negated our day off to finish a project. In any case, our infrequent day off is generally spent with sleeping in, cleaning, personal organization, and whatever else needs to be done. We have both talked about things we miss back home like mowing the lawn (yeah, really), working in the yard, washing the cars, and messing around in the garage. Certainly we miss family activities, but there is something uniquely special about those ubiquitous chores laying in wait on a day off that I long for.

The days that we do take off involve a lot of organization and cleaning for me. I change the sheets on my bed weekly and throw them into my laundry bag. I generally do laundry twice a week on Mondays and Thursdays. I like to vacuum my carpet weekly, but that doesn’t always happen. Sometimes we are able to borrow the SPG upright vacuum and other times we bring the shop-vac from the shop. I organize my change/pogs, receipts, and notes made during the week and file them appropriately. I also go through my email by updating, responding, organizing, and deleting as needed. I also take stock of my snacks and foodstuffs in my room armoire and fridge and essentially make a grocery list to acquire.

About once a month, CD and I give the center / shop a good cleaning. We sweep weekly or whenever we cycle a vehicle in and out, but our administrative center doesn’t get vehicle traffic and remains pretty clean. It requires routine stuff like cleaning the coffee pot, dusting off the computer and printers, wiping down surfaces, and vacuuming the chairs and such. Easy, but required stuff.

We go through a lot of water in a given week. I’m not talking about water for bathing, but drinking water. There are pallets of water sitting all over Bagram from a variety of manufacturers (the only one you may recognize is Nestle’, the French company), mostly from Bahrain, Saudi Arabia, and the U.A.E. I prefer the Jeema and Oasis brands because they come in bottles that are 600 ml and 625 ml respectively instead of the half liter bottles. CD and I pretty much know what brand sits where so we simply drive up to the palletized stacks and throw four or so boxes (24 in a box) into our vehicle weekly. That may seem like a lot of water, but we make coffee from it at the shop, I make tea or hot chocolate in the mornings, and use it for my oatmeal. During the day I’ll drink about three bottles of water and generally one or two in the evening. The empty bottles are great for recycling and the larger sizes are a must when you decide you do not want to make the 100 meter dash to the closest bathroom in the evenings. I know I got those outdoor slippers, but hoofing it to the bathroom at night here is worse than getting out of your camping tent to use the nearest tree.

I thought I would start attaching a picture in each of these weeklies to give you a little insight to some of the stuff I have told you about. You’ll have to let me know if the file is too large or experiences any problems in transmission. The first picture I am attaching is a view from my B Hut and is essentially looking north. That is our Camp Vance Chapel on the left with B Huts lined up next to it continuing on to the right and away.















As you can tell, this was after a minor snow fall, however the sun has already melted the snow off of the tin roofs. To the immediate front right of this picture is our concrete bunker covered with sandbags (and a little snow). A small part of the Hindu Kush is in the background and is approximately 20 km away from my location. The taller buildings beyond the B Huts (and obviously this side of the mountains) house an operations center and an administration center for Camp Vance. Overall, not a bad view.

I almost forgot to tell you fine folks about our elation over wire wheel grinders. We brought one 4” vertical wire wheel that attaches to our drill just because we might find a need for it. As it turns out, we were using that thing daily and wore it down to nubs in short order. We then started using grinding stones, but they just do not perform the task we are asking of them with the same panache and gallantry of the wire wheel. This lack of performance caused us to send a special request to our company for immediate replacement of the wire wheel and wouldn’t you know it, they responded quickly by sending us five wire brushes that attach to our drill. CD and I were not sure these brushes would work as well as the vertical wheel, but once on the job, they outperformed the wheel by the same large margin as the wheel outperformed the stones. Glee overcame us. It is truly amazing how a $3 item can make two men jubilant!

Since I am so late with getting this out, I already have half of next week’s Weekly written. The teaser will be easy for me. There is no deliberation about what I am going to write about because I have already done it. Therefore, next week’s stories will include the back-of-the-neck, hair-raising experience of the Vice President’s visit, unbelievably new vehicles, and mosquito sightings.

Thanks for reading


Craig